A Trio of New NYC Restaurants Has Sparked a French Feeding Frenzy
(138 Lafayette St., NYC, 212-271-4252)
French Twist: Lyrics from a French children’s song (“On entend le coucou”) chime in the restrooms of this Roman & Williams–designed space, resplendent with whitewashed brick walls, pewter chandeliers, and candlelight.
Le Chef: Chicago-born Daniel Rose, who took Paris by storm with his groundbreaking Spring (and younger sibling La Bourse et La Vie), is exploring new terroir in SoHo.
Specialité de la Maison: Tout le lapin is just what it sounds like: the whole rabbit, bathed in a divine pan sauce fortified with Manzanilla sherry.
Un Peu De Vin: Beverage director Aaron Thorp is partial to the 1993 Domaine Drouhin Laurène from Dundee Hills, Oregon, a Pinot Noir with a bit of age and earthiness.
Le Coq Rico
(30 E. 20th St., NYC, 212-267-7426)
French Twist: Like the French, who cherish their pedigreed poultry, Le Coq Rico puts top-shelf chickens from local farms (primarily in New York and Pennsylvania) in the spotlight.
Le Chef: The three-Michelin-star Alsatian chef Antoine Westermann already runs four casual, but celebrated, spots in Paris, including the Montmartre-based Le Coq Rico, which shares its name with this new Manhattan outpost.
Specialité de la Maison: Baeckeoffe is a 120-day-old Brune Landaise chicken baked with artichokes, potatoes, spring onions, garlic, chicken jus, and Riesling in an Alsatian earthenware pot.
Un Peu De Vin: Sommelier Adrien Boulouque favors Alsatian white varieties, such as the 2014 Hermann J. Wiemer Dry Riesling from the Finger Lakes and a 2012 Trimbach Pinot Gris from Alsace.
(157 Suydam St., Brooklyn, 347-295-1700)
French Twist: Chef Catherine Allswang and her architect daughter, Rachel Allswang, have brought bistronomie to Brooklyn’s outer reaches, opening a 60-seat restaurant in a converted Bushwick garage.
Le Chef: Catherine Allswang has previously cooked at four restaurants in Paris and is still a partner in two of them, Chez Graff and Le Café de Mars.
Specialités de la Maison: Grilled hanger steak served with Béarnaise and potatoes sautéed in duck fat. To start: homemade foie gras marinated in port and cognac.
Un Peu De Vin: The all-natural wine list includes a lovely Bordeaux, Les Piliers de Maison Blanche from Montagne St.-Émilion, and the terrific Domaine de Durban Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise.
Coming Soon: Majorelle
Mon dieu! The Lowell Hotel, once infamous as a trysting place, is also taking on some Gallic charm, courtesy of Charles Masson (previously of La Grenouille) and three-Michelin-star chef Christian Delouvrier. Their new restaurant (28 E. 63rd St., NYC), named for the famed Majorelle gardens in Marrakech and decorated by Michael S. Smith, is scheduled to open sometime this month. The menu will focus on French Mediterranean fare with Moroccan accents.
A version of this article appeared in the October 2016 issue of NYC&G (New York Cottages & Gardens) with the headline: Trois Chic.