A Rainbow of Rosés From the Hamptons' Best Hangouts



Painting by J. A. MurdochA rose is a rose is a rose, except when it’s a rosé, and then all bets are off, as this summertime favorite can vary in shade from pale pink to orange-hued to a deep pink-red. Rosé is made almost exclusively from red grapes, although French appellation laws allow a blend of red and white grapes in a few regions, particularly in Champagne. The most common rosé-making method involves pressing the grapes and briefly leaving the juice in contact with the skins—the shorter the period, the lighter the color. Brilliant pinks used to be more valued, but now the fashion is for luminous orange rosés, which come mostly from Provence. Not to be outdone, Long Island rosés have lately been hitting their stride. The following four venues are good bets for great rosés from both near and far.

Le Charlot​
36 Main St., Southampton, 631-353-3222
The List: Six Provençal rosés and one local at this newly opened outpost of the Upper East Side bistro.
Local Pick: Wölffer Estate Rosé 2014 ($46) possesses a bright copper color and is a classic Merlot-driven blend, displaying floral and fruit aromas.
French Pick: Château La Gordonne Côtes de Provence Rosé 2014 ($60), a blend of Grenache, Cinsault, and Syrah, is a pale orange rosé with notes of wild strawberries and herbs.

Sunset Beach
35 Shore Rd., Shelter Island, 631-749-2001, 
The List: Five from Côtes de Provence and one local at this rocking French Riviera–meets–Malibu hot spot.
Local Pick: Sunset Beach André Balazs Collection ($150 for a magnum), made by Channing Daughters in Bridgehampton, is 100 percent Merlot, with soft red berry fruit flavors and floral aromatics.
French Pick: Impress that 20- year-old Russian heiress you’ve been squiring with a jeroboam (a three-liter bottle) of Château d’Esclans Côtes de Provence “Garrus” ($790). Aged in oak barrels with grapes from the best vineyards of St. Tropez, it has a white Burgundy–like gravitas.

Navy Beach
16 Navy Rd., Montauk, 631-668-6868, 
The List: This beachfront hipster hangout offers ten Côtes de Provence rosés and one each from the Loire Valley, Spain’s Rioja region, Corsica, New Zealand, and Long Island.
Local Pick: Paumanok Dry Rosé 2014 ($42) is light-bodied and pale pink, with notes of cranberry and strawberry finishing bone dry.
French Pick: Côtes de Provence Château Minuty “Prestige” Gassin ($69), a pale pink Grenache-dominant blend, is positively bursting with vivid aromas of white flowers and citrus.

The Beacon
8 W. Water St., Sag Harbor, 631-725-7088, 
The List: Six rosés, including three from Provence and one each from Champagne, California, and Long Island, ideal for sipping at sunset while overlooking the marina. Local Pick: Channing Daughters Rosato di Merlot ($48) sports a bright orange-pink hue and a riot of fruit flavors, with a lively freshness on the finish.
French Pick: Domaine La Suffrène, Bandol Rosé, Côtes de Provence ($54), primarily a blend of Mourvèdre grapes, has pleasant aromas of spices and licorice.

A version of this article appeared in the July 15 2015 issue of Hamptons Cottages & Gardens with the headline: Blushes with Fame.

 

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