In recent years, I’ve followed the rising fortunes of rich reds from Priorat, citrusy whites from Santorini, intense Malbecs from Mendoza. The pursuit of the next big thing has increasingly left the original wine powerhouse, France, in the dust. But winemakers from across France’s diverse terroir are spreading the word about some favorite old regions that are hot once again. This fall, look to the French to keep things interesting.
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